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Muito boa a Aula Vou fazer o teste do diametro com a metragem para testar o beauty que eu tenho aqui de uma marca Brasileira . So para aprender seguindo estas regras de medida como base a mesma iluminação. Muito obrigado pelo conteúdo e maestria em repassar todo este conhecimento ... Sou grato por tudo

Hey John. A little tip as an instructor that I found works ( especially with newbies). Always use forward slash when typing aperture. I think it reinforces the fact that it’s a fraction. A lot of people have trouble remembering which number has a bigger hole. f/2 rather than F2. Everyone understands they’d rather have 1/2 a pie rather than 1/8 of one. 😊

Very precise and knowledgeable.

Such a great video! Thankyou!

Adorama don’t ship items to Ghana?😍

Dicas Valiosas. Muito Obrigado!

Does the Elinchrom save the last TTL settings when you switch over to manual?

Lots of great info. Aways said that knowing DOF of apertures of focal lengths you are using is a must.

As always helpful and informative, Thank you so much John! Good luck!

Excellent explanation, thank you John.

The violent contrast between blur and sharpness is to photography what Mc Donald's is to gastronomy. It does not isolate the subject (composition does) but destroys the middle ground and depth, as multiple layers create depht and dimension. With only one overblurry layer for background, you get a flat mush of pixels giving the feeling that the subject is standing in front of a wallpaper or a green screen. If the environement is distracting, instead of destroying it, choose a more dynamic angle.

Great video. Thx for breakdown and comparisons

I have Godox lights and not Elinchrom. Anyways I thought the mobile app was neat so I searched for an app to use with my lights and they make one. The ability to save my set ups now is incredible. I need to spend a day saving all my complex light set ups. What a great time saver.

I find it a bit comical to hear people talking about the "exposure triangle". This guy speaks of his "early photography instruction" in high school, while failing to mention that it was about 15 minutes ago. The reason this is important to mention is that in all traditional photography, the sensitivity of the light-sensitive material (film, plates, sensors) is definitely NOT a variable you have control over, in thye same way you control f-stop and shutter speed. The actual "speed" or sensitivity of the light-sensitive material was either printed on the box (in later years) or determined by the chemical concoction you may have come up with (in earlier years). What I find comical is not so much that the "educator" here has absolutely zero information of the history of his subject, nor the origin of the units used ("ISO") and where they came from, but that armed with the vastness of this ignorance of facts easily researched and elucidated he continues - confident from his pulpit of manure-pit ignorance - to wish to educate us on a subject of which he has not the slightest inkling of its origin - nor of its significance.

Hi John, I tested several settings which I had done in the past to verify the results with the outcome of the software. I was very surprised how helpful this great tool is. It shows very good the impact of the use of grids and diffusors in the striplights and softboxes and the effect at the model. In the meantime I have saved different settings which I like to use in my shootings. It helps me to check, how to modify the settings slightly to get very different and interesting results. That’s very helpful for preparation if you have less time for the shooting. Of course its just more fun to experiment with a real model in the real world, but nevertheless a really great tool and worth the money it costs! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

There is no such thing as using dof incorrectly, if the end result achieves your desired effect, then it is correct for your artistic intention and right for you. The same applies to any other aspect of photography, if not following the "rules" gets you to your intended result, then it is correct, regardless of anyone elses critique of your work.

Great visual samples and video John!!

Thank you

John - Thank you. You are a master at balancing the technical aspects with practical application. 1000 x Thank you.

Evoto of course. No wonder the images looked weird. So much effort into taking good images to make the end product look bad.

And quite important note is, that for portrait crop (head and chest) F2.8 creates the best separation, because body is fully in focus and background is not. For wider openings of aperture usually the body is not fully in focus and it's not very pronounced from the blurry background. For other crops (medium, american or full body) usually the fastest the lens go creates the best separation, but if lens is not sharp wide open, then it's better to stop it down for better separation, because subject will appear crispier, even if bokeh is a bit less blurry separation will be better.

That’s an excellent and very informative episode. Thank you

DoF is the same for the same crop regardless the focal length. Of course if you do not move the camera, then yes longer focal length will create shallower DoF, because you subject is bigger in the frame.

Love the place and set up

what lights are you using in each of the strip boxes?

thanks for another great tutorial john

thank you so much

this lesson/set of tutorials is incredible. so helpful! thanks for making!

thank you

Such gorgeous portraits

Deep Octa 39" was used?

Thank you for your well-paced delivery of information. Creators who speak like an auctioneer make it hard to absorb information.

Hey thanks for the explanation. I have a silly question. How much weight do you have to put inside the sandbag so that the flash and modifier dont fall and break? I have a metal thing and is like 13 kg. Regards❤

It would also be very enlightening to see side by side the fully lit picture with one with just the key, than with key and fill, and with one with key and rim - to not only see what each light is doing, but also what difference it makes.

Very helpful thanks

Awesome ❤❤❤❤❤ your work is magic!

Hey John! Do you have a video showing the lighting and BTS at the timestamp16:11 ?

Thanks a lot for your tutorial and the code which I just used to buy the studio version. I think this software can help me checking light situation much easier before doing shootings. looking forward to working with it and get faster results. Best regards from Germany!

John this was incredibly helpful, ty! Quick question; in the shot of tyler with the gels; how did you keep his entire body from being coloured whilst only have the colour on the background shadow? Sorry if thats a stupid question! Is it best to use a gray or white background for images like that? Thanks again for the inspo!

Can we get a behind the scenes from this as additional content from your next video 🤔

Where did you get these v-flats from ?

Wonderful image!

Did you use a black mist or other filter to get that haze on the bars of light in the background? Very cool 😎

Not just impeccable (that's per usual), but also particularly interesting. 🧡

Love Evoto. I wish that the panels would collapse when you click on a different section (similar to Lightroom) Hate that they all stay open. Yes, I do close one when I go to another but wish it was auto

Wiggle to your right???? Really?

John! Brilliant. Thank you for this video. For me, this is priceless guidance. Kudos!

Thank you. I find your information to be relatable and easy to understand.

Super useful to see this test with numbers vs power outputs, I'm facing a mixed light situation and not super happy with freeze mode (Profoto D2 1000ws), cause the ambient is still leaking in and blur the further details. I went to freeze mode instead of Hi-speed cause I can't have the subject available for a long time (sport celebrity) and needed to take as more shots as possible without him repeating the action vs me shooting only a few frames per action (hi-speed can't recycle as fast as freeze mode but overpowers ambient ofc). Still, in this extreme case, next time I would probably rely on Hi-speed with a slower but more syncronized pace between my finger and the ideal pose. Or go for a battery pack (Pro10 or 11) so I can freeze at a proportionally higher output capability from the unit. Does it sounds correct to you? Thanks, great video as usual!

Thanks for your great tutorials. I am in the process of buying some battery power flash units. I do have some good experiences with Godox but also they failed me a few times during important shoots such as a wedding and an editorial shoot. I shoot with a S1R and S1 and want to move quickly and free so will choose between the one or three. I mostly shoot these scenes with umbrellas as I love the soft lite and its flexibility. Looking at this review I think the power of the three will be the factor for me over the one.